Sequin and Satin Simple Sew Ruby Dress from Love Sewing


A few posts ago, I told you guys how I had a friend getting married… and how I planned to make a dress for her wedding…and how it would all be fine because I had just under a month to do it… Well, I started it 2 weeks before the wedding, after a successful shopping trip in London with a close friend and some last minute changes to the design in my head!! No matter how I plan things in my head, I always end up leaving my sewing plans until the last minute… I guess that’s just how I roll!!

So, lets start at the beginning of this plan, shall we? Firstly I aimed to draft the pattern all by myself (I’d describe the dress to you but I do plan to make it eventually so I’m going to keep the design in my head for now!!) but, in reality, this could have only happened if I’d progressed further than drafting my basic bodice block 3 months ago, which I haven’t! Next, I planned to use half a pattern that I know fits me, and use part-draping and part simple pattern drafting to complete the design. I probably could have done this if I’d started the dress more than 2 weeks before the wedding. Instead, I decided I’d use a pattern I already own, and have made before but make it in more suitable fabrics for a wedding. In hindsight, I probably should have gone fabric window/research shopping first, then designed the dress, figured out the pattern and bought the fabrics in the required quantities… but where is the fun in that?! So I set my heart on a colour, the types of fabrics I wanted to use and just went with it!

The Simple Sew Ruby Dress pattern, which I bought off eBay as I’d missed the the issue of Love Sewing magazine that it came with (but you can now buy it, and all of the other Simple Sew patterns, from here), has a fitted bodice, V-neckline on the back, full circle skirt and a concealed zip. The neckline and armholes are finished with a facing, which at first seems a little confusing to construct but as soon as you’ve completed the construction once, it’s super easy peasy (I think this might be partly due to the instructions, which aren’t as detailed as other patterns out there but as it originally came free with a magazine you can’t really complain too much!).

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 21 57 pm

I have wanted to sew with sequins for a while, I love some of the all-over-sequin styles on the high-street and feel they add a little bling to a style without overdoing it, if it’s done right. I love the colour navy and wear it 80% of the time, and it was the colour I’d set my heart on for this dress. I found this beautiful duchess satin for a £6.00 per meter, it’s a lovely quality, heavyweight satin, perfect to add a little bit of a formal look to a garment. However, I then struggled to find a matching sequin in the same colour! Luckily, I did find some and the assistant in the shop assured me his was the best quality all-over-sequin fabric as the sequins are stitched on instead of glued on… At £15.00 a meter, I decided it would be worth it, plus it was the best colour match between the sequins and satin that I’d seen all day, so I went with it!

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 20 47 pm

Originally, my plan was to make the dress with a fitted sequin bodice, and to use the duchess satin to fully line the bodice instead of using the facing around the neckline and armholes. That was when I remembered just how big the waist darts are and I worried about how these would look so I did a little tester dart and the sequins just weren’t sitting right. I thought about re-drafting the bodice pattern to make this work, but I originally learned how to manipulate darts in my first year of university and after that I studied menswear where there were significantly less darts to play with!! I could have spoken to some of the girls at work, but I wanted to sew the dress together right there and then, so I cheated…

Instead of amending the pattern properly, I decided I would cut out the full dress in duchess satin, and the bodice pieces in sequin with no amendments. I knew by using the pattern without constructing the darts, it would give the front bodice enough fullness to act as a draped layer over the body, and I think it worked quite effectively.

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 15 50 pm

The construction of the dress was essentially the same, except that I had 2 layers of the bodice. I constructed the satin bodice, by following the instructions and prepared the facing by overlocking the raw edges where necessary, however I didn’t add interfacing because the satin was pretty structured and I knew it could hold its own. I prepared the sequin bodice by overlocking all of the raw edges (this prevented the sequins from falling off as I’m sewing the garment together) and stitched the front to the back on the shoulder seams, completely ignoring any reference to the darts. It was then just a case of laying the prepared sequin bodice over the full satin bodice wrong side to right side (as it would look on the dress) and laying the facing on top right side to right side of the sequin bodice so the sequins were essentially sandwiched in.

I stitched around the neckline and under-stitched it accordingly. The pattern doesn’t call for this, but it prevents the seam from rolling out of the neckline of the dress giving it more of a professional finish, plus I just really like the process. I then stitched the armholes and pulled the backs of the bodice through the shoulders of the dress to bring it all through to the right side of the fabric – it makes sense when you do it!! It is important to note that the side seams and centre back seam has not been stitched, which is why it is possible to do this!!

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 19 38 pm

From this point forwards, I pretty much ignored the sequin layer until I had constructed the rest of the dress with a few exceptions – when stitching the side seams and inserting the zip. But first, I attached the skirt front to the satin bodice front, and each corresponding skirt back to the back bodice pieces. Now, before we go any further on this, I faced some issues here and I still haven’t figured out why, but the skirt front would not fit onto the bodice front – I can’t figure out if I accidentally took the darts in too much, or whether the skirt was cut slightly off the grain and caused the skirt to stretch slightly – I stitched these two pieces together 4 times before I was happy with the finish and it still isn’t perfect. It’s something I didn’t come across on the first Ruby dress I stitched because I did that in a 4-way stretch jersey fabric but it is something I will re-assess the next time I make the Ruby dress.

Once I was happy with how the skirts were attached, I stitched the side seams together from the top of the facing down the side of the bodice to the hem of the skirt. I pulled the sequin fabric away from the seam so that it wouldn’t be caught in except at the very bottom of the armhole so that it could hang loose. I wanted the finish of this dress to be top quality so I took particular care to match the waist seams… I’m pretty happy with this result:

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 17 14 pm

Next it was time to insert the invisible zip. For this, I used a concealed zipper foot on my machine, it was the first time I used this presser foot so I took my time, plus I wanted the sequin overlay hem to be level on the zip – this is something I have always struggled with and I think it’s about time I get into good sewing habits, like matching seams when inserting zips!

Here is one area where I didn’t cheat, I actually stitched the zip in twice. I heard some great advice form a colleague at work who said she would first stitch the zip in close to the zipper teeth but just far enough to make unpicking easy if necessary. This allowed her to check she was happy with the zip placement and make sure seams were level, before stitching the zip in a second time, as close to the zipper teeth as possible. This is what I did, and it’s pretty safe to say it worked perfectly:

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 17 04 pm

I know you can see the zip but it’s less noticeable in person or, you know, not zoomed…. at least that’s my excuse, but just LOOK AT HOW LEVEL THE SEQUIN HEM IS!!

It was plain sailing from here, I stitched up the rest of the centre back seam and stitched up the side seams of the sequin bodice. Now, because I didn’t amend the front bodice pattern piece for the sequin, I had some overhang on the front compared to the back, I decided to use this to my advantage to add some weight to the sequin overlay front and stitched a deeper hem on the front than I did on the back pieces.

To hem the skirt, the pattern only asks for the 0.5cm hem, but when I made the first Ruby Dress I used a 2cm hem allowance and the length was perfect, so I did the same on this one. As this is a circle skirt, I would pin or hang my dress on my mannequin whenever it wasn’t being sewn so that it would allow the skirt to drop in the places where it isn’t cut on the grain, and I could determine if the hem needed levelling before it is stitched. However, I found that the fabric I used didn’t drop very much at all so no trimming was necessary to level the hem, and I just pressed the hem allowance up and stitched it in place. This is the one area I am not happy with on this dress – really I should have trimmed this down first as it wouldn’t sit right. I didn’t want to unpick and keep pressing and stitching as at this point it was the night before the wedding and I wanted it to be finished so I could wear it!! You can’t really tell there is this hem issue, and I got away with it on the day but it might be something I fix before I wear it again!! I finished the dress off by hand-stitching the facing down and adding in one of my little labels, overall I am really happy with it!!

Kerri's Wedding

The wedding was the most perfect day, the sun was shining and everyone had a great time!! This is a pattern I can see myself making again, I really like my first version and wear it regularly, and this was a fun take on it too!

The rest of the bank holiday weekend passed quickly, but I did manage to find time to pop to Ikea for a new addition to my sewing room – the Raskog trolley. I have seen this trolley used by so many other sewists, on Instagram and on other blogs and I wanted one for myself to keep my sewing tins in, previously I’d have my main sewing tin on the floor and I’d have to reach down to it every 5 minutes for another piece of my kit. The trolley will also allow me to keep my desk clearer during sewing, instead of accumulating tailors chalk, 2x pairs of scissors, my quick-unpick and my sewing gauge etc etc!! I believe the Raskog trolley is no longer in production, so if you’re thinking of getting one, I’d do it sooner rather than later!!

Photo 05-06-2016, 1 22 19 pm

In other news, I’ve really enjoyed watching Me-Made-May on Instagram and the updates on various blogs. I didn’t take part because I don’t have enough me-mades but that is something I would like to change!! It has certainly got me thinking about what I want to sew and wear, and I have a sort of plan to get that started, which is good because without this direction I’d probably just make things for special occasions that I can’t wear very often!! I’ll elaborate more on this in the next post, but I’ve been thinking a lot more about my sewing and the skills I want to learn and where I want to take this little blog in the future. Having seen May talk at The Big Simplicity Blog Meet and how passionately she feels about sewing, it has pushed me to start making actions in creating these big changes… and that’s pretty exciting!!

Thanks for stopping by :), what things have you guys been sewing lately?


 

The Big Simplicity Blog Meet


**All images used in this post were taken by Simplicity during the blog meet**

Earlier this year, Simplicity announced their second Blog Meet would be taking place in Manchester on Saturday 21st May. Having been unable to attend their first meet, which took place last year in London, I was delighted to be able to go to this one!!

Blog meet badge 2016

I studied at the University of Leeds, so I’d been to Manchester a handful of times, but not so much so that I could remember where anything was (plus it’s been 3 years since my last trip up there!!). With this in mind, I was relieved that on my train I was able to find fellow blogger Claire from Sew Incidentally…, who was much more thoroughly prepared for travelling around the city!!

After our train arrived at Manchester Piccadilly Station, Claire and I met up with more bloggers who were attending the blog meet, many of which I follow on Twitter and/or Instagram and all these lovely people made me feel really welcome, considering I’d tagged onto their group right at the very last minute!! These lovely ladies were Jenny from Today, Jenny Stitched, Megan from Pigeon Wishes, Rach from Rach Against the Sewing Machine, Charlotte from English Girl at Home and Zoe from Oodles of Craft.

We all jumped on the free bus (why don’t we have free buses down south?), and made our way to the Castlefield Rooms… To be honest, we struggled to find it even with Claire’s maps, but we got there in time to get a cup of tea and be seated for the beginning of May Martin’s workshop.

IMG_7384

I absolutely loved watching and listening to May speak about sewing. She has so much passion for it, which is good seeing as she teaches it full time! And with her experience gained from many years of sewing and teaching, she is a true inspiration no matter what your current experience is, whether you’re a beginner or a seamstress with qualifications!

IMG_7323

Although the setting was far from that of a lecture, it felt very much like being back at uni learning about design and construction (for those who don’t know, I studied Fashion Design at University and my course was split 50% design, 50% garment technology with some academic modules thrown in too keep things interesting) except it was 100% better because I didn’t have any looming deadlines or coursework to be getting on with!

IMG_7311

May shared some wonderful tips in regards to sewing with jerseyoverlockers &walking feetturning through strapslooking after your machinesewing curves such as collars and scallopsinterfacingcovering buttonscutting our patternsbubble easing sleeves and inserting concealed zips.

IMG_7426

For those of us sat at the back, we were welcomed to come crowd around her machine to watch her tutorials and see details. She welcomed all questions being asked, often causing her train of thought to go off on a tangent, however it really didn’t matter…. I was taking notes on all of the information she had to offer!!

IMG_7402

May also announced the Simplicity Blogger Challenge for 2016, which I am looking forward to taking part in! There are 2 categories I’d like to enter, and having learned from last year’s challenge that I really was not adventurous enough, I’m planning something special this year!! More information to come soon!!

IMG_7390

Simplicity also very kindly spoiled us with cake and a fantastic goody bag filled with patterns, sewing notions and magazines!

IMG_7282

At the workshop, I met more bloggers, some of which I knew and others I didn’t, including 2 of the girls behind the Sew It Yourself challenge – read more about the challenge on their blog here – as well as Amy, the editor of Love Sewing Magazine and author behind Almond Rock and the editor or Sewing Made Simple (sorry!! I am terrible with names, and I seem to have forgotten yours!!). After the workshop, a small group of us ventured off to Abakhan Fabrics for a browse (or a splurge in some cases, but I was on my best behaviour having only been fabric shopping the Saturday before!!) and then a bit of dinner before embarking on our trains home.

IMG_7429

If I’m completely honest, I was feeling really nervous on my train journey up to the meet but I had absolutely no reason to be! And having now met some fellow sewing bloggers and had a lovely day out with them, I hope I’ll be seeing some of them again in the future!

Thanks Simplicity for a fantastic day!!


 

Simplicity 1158 – Inspired by Project Runway – Printed Playsuit


When I visited the Sewing for Pleasure exhibition at the NEC in Birmingham, I picked up this pattern. I wasn’t looking for a playsuit pattern, but I wanted something different to dresses, that could maybe give me a bit of a challenge and learn new techniques.

Photo 11-05-2016, 7 51 24 pm

Once I’d bought the pattern, I was on the lookout for the perfect fabric that would be suitable for a summer and winter wardrobe, with bare legs (rare) or tights (the usual). This printed crepe fabric caught my eye, the drape and hand feel felt right for the pattern and I was lucky as there was slightly more than the requested 2m left so they lovely lady on the stand gave me the rest of the bolt!

image

I was determined to sew this up for my holiday (which I returned from last week, it was lovely btw!!), and committed a sewing evening at work to cutting out the pattern and fabric. I like to do this at work because we have large cutting tables and there are no cats there to distract me or sit on the fabric/patterns. Whilst selecting the patterns for the design I chose, I realised this playsuit has pockets… I bloody love pockets on dresses and skirts and playsuits, well just about everything! I can see myself making more of these! I cut a basic size 12, as this was the closest to my body measurements, and because there is so much positive ease, it didn’t matter if the measurements were a little smaller than me!

Photo 11-05-2016, 7 52 32 pm

The playsuit didn’t take long to put together at all! The instructions were really clear, it all came together easily, I completed he bodice one evening and the shorts the next evening. The only thing I changed was to add an additional line of top-stitching at the waist to hold the deep waist seam allowance and elastic channel up against the bodice of the playsuit. I also didn’t have any bias binding for the armholes but found overlocking seam allowance and turning them under worked just fine!

Photo 11-05-2016, 7 53 14 pm

The fabric was lovely to sew with, however it doesn’t press all too well… You can just about press your seam allowances, but this was the main reason I top-stitched the waist elastic channel/seam allowances up, because I knew it would twist up and down when being worn.

Photo 11-05-2016, 7 54 12 pm

The fit is looovely, and it is probably the first playsuit I own that isn’t “too short”, even for me! I did wear it on holiday but didn’t get a photo (I forget to take photos all the time, even when I’m somewhere lovely, so this wasn’t surprising!).

Photo 11-05-2016, 7 56 24 pm

I’d happily make up lots of these, in different colours and fabrics and the pattern has so many options of what you can do -wide leg shorts/trousers, slim leg shorts/trousers, short sleeve, long sleeve, sleeveless, cross over front, pleated front… The possibilities are endless!! I think I might even make one of the jump suits, when I find the right fabric!

Photo 11-05-2016, 7 56 55 pm

All-in-all, this was another great Simplicity – Inspired by Project Runway pattern, suitable for beginners looking for a new challenge!

GBSB 2016

Image from: BBC Website

This week it was announced that The Great British Sewing Bee returns to our screens on Monday at 9pm!! Last year was the first series I’d watched and I found it so inspiring! Even the fella loved it, so I’m looking forward to seeing the projects, challenges and how everyone copes under that sewing bee pressure his year! I’m quite a slow sewer, even if I’m trying to be quick, so I am always in awe of the contestants!

Blog meet badge 2016

I’m also attending The Big Simplicity Blog Meet on May 21st in Manchester, which is my first blog meet and I’m really looking forward to it! I’ve seen quite a few bloggers that I already follow will be attending too, so it’ll be nice to meet the people behind the blogs and widen my blogging circle!!

If you’re also attending the blog meet, let me know in the comments below :)!